Lampu Indiglow Mobil Buatan Sendiri

Iseng-iseng ngisi libur nan panjang di ujung pergantian tahun 2008.

Bongkar tunggangan. Rubah tampilan lampu indikator speedometer/odometer di dashboard mobil Toyota Corolla GL AE80. Dari lampu biasa menjadi model indiglow.
Idenya dari Penghuni milis Indonesia Honda Tiger Community.

Modalnya :
  1. Dashboard yang mau dibongkar dan dioprek.
  2. Obeng kembang.
  3. Soldering Gun.
  4. Timah.
  5. Grease.
  6. AVO Meter.
  7. Hot Melt Glue Gun.
  8. Tang Potong.
  9. Tang Jepit Buaya.


Komponen yang diperlukan :
  1. LED (Light Emitting Diode) sebanyak yang diperlukan, warnanya sesuai selera.
  2. 1 buah IC AN7805
  3. 1 buah Resistor 39 Ohm atau 47 Ohm 1watt atau lebih
  4. 2 Diode 1watt (1N4002) atau diatasnya.


Komponen diatas adalah yang direkomendasikan Bro Wawan seorang anggota Komunitas Honda-Tiger Indonesia, dan juga termasuk tutorial detail susunan komponennya.
Langkah-langkah perakitan lampu indiglow murah meriah yang secara khusus untuk skema komponen, dengan menghargai karya Bro Wawan, berikut ini adalah gambar asli milik beliau yang diposting di milis :


Bagian yang paling peka dari rangkaian tersebut adalah Resistor 39Ohm 1watt yang mudah panas. Untuk keperluan display LED pada tampilan Odometer di dashboard mobil Corolla GL AE80 yang saya oprek, perlu lebih banyak LED. Sehingga saya putuskan menggunakan Resistor dengan watt yang lebih besar, 5watt. Resistor 47Ohm adalah Resistor yang paling mudah dicari dipasaran dan yang bisa saya gunakan.


Penataan LED adalah sebagaimana tampak pada gambar dibawah ini. Semakin banyak LED yang dipakai dan menggunakan variasi warna LED yang sesuai dengan selera adalah pilihan dari sebuah kreatifitas pribadi Anda.

Hasilnya seperti tampak pada gambar dibawah. Gambar yang dihasilkan dari tustel saku memang agak kurang focus. Namun sebagai sebuah hasil modifikasi, tentu saja sangat menarik.




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When I Am Feel Like A Hero

Ada saat-saat ketika diri sendiri merasa jadi seorang hero...

Dalam perjalanan dari Samarinda ke Balikpapan, sebuah truk dengan 4 penumpang di bangku depan dan 4 penumpang dalam bak truk terlibat kecelakaan. Menabrak bak truk didepannya.....



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Car Alternator - The Charging System

The alternator (generator) supplies electric power for the vehicle's electric systems and also recharges the battery when the engine is running and to enable the electrical devices in your car to operate, it should always be in good working condition. If it fails, the engine will continue to run using the battery power, but the car will eventually stop as soon as the battery will be completely discharged. This is because the battery still has a stored power to be consumed, but once this power is all sapped, that when bigger problem comes in. When the alternator fails, there is a warning light on the instrument panel that comes on with the engine running. Usually it's something like warning light. If you see that sign on your instrument panel while driving, have your vehicle inspected before it dies on you. So you must check your alternator regularly and if needed, have replacement the alternator in order to prevent more car problems in the future.

An Overview of the Charging System

The Charging system is an important part of the electrical system. It provides electrical current for the lights, the radio, the heater, the engine’s electrical systems, and other electrical accessories. It also maintains the batteries in a charged state, recharging them as necessary. In order to properly service the charging system, you need to understand how it operates. The charging system has three main components: the alternator, the voltage regulator, and the batteries.
The alternator generates electrical power to run accessories and to recharge the batteries. It is normally driven by a belt located off the crankshaft. Mechanical energy from the crankshaft is converted by the alternator into electrical energy for the batteries and accessories. The voltage regulator acts as an electrical “traffic cop” to control alternator output. It senses when the batteries need recharging, or when the vehicle’s electrical needs increase, and adjusts the alternator’s output accordingly. The batteries are a reservoir of chemical electrical power. Their primary purpose is to crank the engine. They also supply power to vehicle accessories when the electrical load is too great for the alternator alone.

The Primary Causes of Charging System Malfunction

Before discussing the preventive maintenance and diagnostic procedures for the charging system, we’re going to cover certain environmental and product application factors that can cause the charging system to malfunction.

Excessive heat. An alternator can become damaged if it operates too long at excessive temperatures. Damaging heat levels are generated in two ways: when the alternator becomes dirty either externally or internally restricting its ability to dissipate heat from its external surface or not allowing air to pass through the unit, and when air ducts and heat shields are not replaced after the alternator has been serviced.
Dirt and dust. Charging system components operate less efficiently when buildup of dirt particles form around wire and cable connection points. Dirty connection points impair the flow of electrical current.
Vibration. If charging system components are poorly or loosely mounted to the vehicle’s frame, the resulting vibration can damage sensitive internal components. A loosely mounted component will also diminish the performance of the important belt drives. This is very important on high powered engines.

Preventive Maintenance Procedures

The object of preventive maintenance is to identify and correct the potential problems before they occur.
There are three preventive maintenance procedures that can greatly enhance the efficiency of the charging system’s functions. These three procedures also represent the initial steps you should take when fully diagnosing (i.e. troubleshooting) a problem in the vehicle’s charging system. The three preventive maintenance procedures are as follows:
  1. Clean alternator and connection points. Insure that all alternator surfaces are clean to the point that they do not have a buildup of dirt, grease or dust. Air flow passages must also be clear so that air can easily pass through the unit. All connection points must be clean and free from corrosion.
  2. Component mounting brackets. As mentioned previously, you need to make sure that the charging system components are securely mounted to their applicable brackets; the brackets, in turn, need to be bolted securely to the engine. Again, if charging system components are poorly or loosely mounted, damaging vibration and diminished belt drive performance are the result.
  3. Tension and condition of belts. You need to also check the belt for proper tension. Caution: be sure the engine is turned off. A loose belt will slip on the pulley and fail to turn the alternator’s rotor. Check belt tension with cricket belt tension gauge. Refer to vehicle manufacturer's specifications for proper belt tension. Before you adjust it, however, tilt the belt and inspect it for glazing, cracks, or dryness. A worn or damaged belt should be replaced. If the belt is in satisfactory condition, use a belt tension gauge and check the results, see Figure 12. Different belt systems use different gauges. Use proper tensioning gauge for your application. Then adjust the tension according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
If you replace a worn or damaged belt, the new belt should be checked for proper tension as well. A new belt loses 60% of its tension in the first few hours of operation. So it needs to be tested under heavy load, and then retensioned. After a new belt is installed, run the engine - with every accessory turned on - for 15 minutes (this puts a heavy load on the belt). Then check the belt tension again and adjust it if needed. Please note that belts on high amperage output alternators may need retensioning twice after installation. Further note that if the vehicle has a multi belt drive, the belts need to be matched. Finally, in most cases and on most vehicles, belt tension should be tested every 10,000 miles.

Diagnostic / Troubleshooting Procedures

Timely preventive maintenance of the charging system should keep it running smoothly. However, when a problem does occur, effective diagnostic (i.e. troubleshooting) procedures will help you locate and correct the problem quickly and economically. Any discussion about the electrical system must begin with the batteries. Before you begin analyzing the charging system, you must be sure the batteries have been properly tested and are at least 75% charged. Otherwise, any electrical tests you conduct on the charging system will be inaccurate. (Please refer to Section Two of this manual for procedures on testing and charging batteries).
We’re now going to show you how to perform four different tests specifically related to the charging system.

Alternator Performance Test. Connect voltmeter to alternator terminals and ammeter to alternator’s positive output cable. Make sure ammeter is at least 6 inches (15 cm) away from alternator to eliminate the possibility of faulty readings. Make sure voltage is present at alternator’s output terminals. Start engine and run it at 1500 RPM’s (operating RPM). Check that all vehicle loads are turned off and reading on ammeter is less than 20 amps. If ammeter reading is greater than 20 amps double check that all vehicle loads are turned off and that batteries are fully charged. Record voltage on voltmeter. Reading should be between 13.8 & 14.4 v for a 12 volt system, 27.8 & 28.4 v for 24 volt systems. If the voltage is not within these ranges then try adjusting the regulator if available. If the regulator can not be adjusted alternator is defective.

Alternator Performance Test Under Load. Keep engine running at 1500 RPM (operating RPM) and meters are connected per Figure. Turn on vehicle loads until 75% of the alternator’s rated output is achieved on ammeter display. Record voltage on voltmeter. Compare reading to that taking during the Alternator Performance Test. If alternator voltage drops more than .5 volts for a 12 V system and .7 volts for a 24 V system then alternator is defective. An alternative method of putting load on an alternator is with a carbon pile tester. Connect carbon pile tester across batteries. Adjust carbon pile until desired reading is obtained on ammeter. Record voltage on voltmeter and shut off vehicle.

Alternator Cable Test
. To test the positive cable connect the ammeter to the positive cable from the alternator. Make sure the ammeter is at least 6 inches (15 cm) away from the alternator to eliminate the possibility of faulty readings. Connect the voltmeter’s negative lead to the positive terminal of the alternator and the positive lead to the positive terminal on the battery. Start engine and set engine RPM to 1500 RPMs (operating speed). Turn on vehicle loads until 75% of alternator’s rated output is achieved on ammeter display. If necessary use a carbon pile tester to apply load on alternator. Record voltage on voltmeter. If reading is greater than .25 volts in a 12 volt circuit or .50 volts in a 24 volt circuit check all wire connections and cable connections. If reading is less than .25 volts in 12 volt circuit and .50 volts in a 24 volt circuit cables are good. Turn off vehicle loads and shut off engine. To test the negative cable move voltmeter’s negative lead to the negative terminal of the battery and the positive lead to the negative terminal of the alternator. Run test again.

Alternator Replacement

In the event that all of the diagnostic / troubleshooting procedures point to a faulty alternator, you'll need to select a new alternator. Its “amperage capacity” rating must support the vehicle’s intended application, or load and duty cycle. If the vehicle has had a history of charging problems and you've eliminated failure in the system, you may want to reevaluate the capacity of the alternator.

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Engine Cooling System (For Car)

Description

A thermostat is a part of an engine cooling system. The thermostat helps to maintain the engine coolant temperature within the normal operating range.
How it works:
When the engine started cold, the thermostat is closed. The engine coolant (antifreeze) does not circulate through the radiator (see the pictures). Instead it returns back into the engine through the by-pass tube. This helps to warm up the engine faster.
As soon as the engine temperature reaches the normal range, the thermostat opens and the engine coolant starts circulating through the radiator where it cools down.
If the coolant temperature in the radiator drops too low, for example when driving on a freeway in a cold weather, the thermostat closes again to keep the temperature within operating range.

Thermostat problems:
Thermostat problems are common. Defective thermostat must be replaced - luckily, it's fairly inexpensive part.

Thermostat stuck open

The thermostat is closed when the engine is cold

If the thermostat does not close properly or stuck open, it will take a long time for a car engine to warm up. Also when driving in cold weather, especially on a freeway, the engine temperature might drop below normal range causing the heater not to work properly.

Thermostat stuck closed

The thermostat is open when the engine is warmed up

If the thermostat stuck closed or does not open fully, the engine might overheat which may cause serious damage to the engine.

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Starting Motor System (For Car)

A starter is an electric motor needed to turn over the engine to start it.
A starter consists of the very powerful DC electric motor and starter solenoid that is attached to the motor (see the picture).
A starter motor requires very high current to crank the engine, that's why it's connected to the battery with large cables (see lower diagram).
The negative (ground) cable connects "-" battery terminal to the engine block close to the starter.
The positive cable connects "+" battery terminal to the starter solenoid.
The starter solenoid works as an electric switch - when actuated, it closes the circuit and connects the starter motor to the battery. At the same time, it pushes the starter gear forward to mesh with the engine's flywheel.

How the starting system works

When you turn the ignition key to the "Start" position, the battery voltage goes through the starter control circuit and activates the starter solenoid, which in turn energizes the starter motor. The starter motor cranks the engine.
A starter can only be operated when the automatic transmission shifter is in "Park" or "Neutral" position or if the car has a manual transmission, when the clutch pedal is depressed.
To accomplish this, there is a Neutral safety switch installed at the automatic transmission, (or at the clutch pedal).
When the automatic transmission is not in "Park" or "Neutral" (or when the clutch pedal is not depressed), the neutral safety switch is open and the starter relay disconnects the starter control circuit.

Car starting problems

If when you turn the key to the "Start" position, you hear the starter cranking as usually, but the car doesn't start, then the problem is most likely not with the starting system.
If when you turn the ignition key to the "Start" position and nothing happens, or all you hear is just a click, or the starter cranks very slow then you probably have a problem with one of the component of the starting system. Most often, it's the battery or the starter motor itself.

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More With Toyota Corolla GL 2E Engine 1984

Ini kisah tentang Toyota Corolla GL AE80 Tahun 1984...

Saya menemukan tiga komentar dan alasan yang berbeda, kenapa orang mau membeli Toyota Corolla GL tahun 1983-1986.


Alasan dan komentar pertama : "It is cheap to run"


What things have gone wrong with the car?

When I bought the car it had worn brake pads. The exhaust pipe had holes including the muffler.
Also the C.V's were worn. The body had minor rust.
General comments?

I have always wanted an 86 Corolla just because I like the shape. And I bought the car because parts for the model are so cheap.

Alasan dan komentar kedua : "Economical, perfect student car"

What things have gone wrong with the car?

Alternator needed reconditioning. Idle-compensator not working (but not essential) Rust in door arches, around windscreen and back passenger windows.
General comments?

A very reliable car. Extremely cheap to run (800kms on one tank of petrol on the open road). Reluctantly sold due to rust. Can go just about anywhere!


Alasan dan kometar ketiga : "A low budget performance car!"


What things have gone wrong with the car?
Since I have owned this car I have had to replace the alternator at a cost of $66. I will also need to buy an alternator belt, replaced the wiper blades, right-hand high/medium globe. For something with so many kms on it, the interior is doing well. Broken window wiper and glove box hinge. Fuel gauge not working properly.
General comments?
The Twin Cam Corolla is a great car and very fuel-efficient. I have placed aftermarket struts in mine so the handling is even better. A sports exhuast system gives it a little more go. Also, a set of king springs improve looks and make it a real buzz to drive. My car already has 350,000 kays on the dial tho' I feel it could do that again.

Di banyak negara, mobil ini masih digunakan orang dan masih diperjualbelikan.

  1. Di Sabah, Mal(ay)sia, Toyota Corolla GL Tahun 1984 ini diiklankan untuk dijual seharga RM7.500
  2. Di Wellington, New Zealand, Sedan ini ditawarkan seharga $810.00
  3. Di Pasig City, Philipine, ditawarkan seharga PhP78,000.00
  4. Di Altrincham, Cheshire, United Kingdom, ditawarkan seharga £600 ono
  5. Di Westgate Rotherham, United Kingdom, ditawarkan seharga £1,595
  6. Dan di Indonesia harga Toyota Corolla GL masih ada pasaran dengan harga sampai Rp.25.000.000,- tergantung kondisi.
  7. Paling payah di Batam, cuma dihargai 7jutaan dan dipakai jadi Taxi.
Sebagai alat bantu, gunakan currency converter online untuk melihat harga

Kelihatannya memang benar kalau mobil ini cheap, economical dan low budget.

Dengan alasan itu pula saya ikut punya yang buatan tahun 1984, sudah tangan ke 3. Then I change it colour with black.

Detailnya sudah saya upload di http://www.cardomain.com

Tetapi sebenarnya yang membuat saya sangat tertarik adalah hasil modifikasi mobil ini yang dilakukan oleh Rollabus di Hobart, Australia. Benar-benar memberikan inspirasi.

Dan sebaliknya, kalau sampai lihat mobil sejenis yang keluyuran di jalan-jalan Kota Batam. Ah, bisa bikin pikiran jadi lain.

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